If you have ever driven in Europe or the United States, you probably assume highways are either free or relatively cheap.
Japan is different.
Here, using highways can easily become the most expensive part of your road trip — sometimes even more than the rental car itself.
This article explains why Japanese highways are so costly, how the ETC system works, and how you can avoid the most common mistakes.
1. Japanese Highways Are Not Free
Almost all expressways in Japan are toll roads.
For example:
- Tokyo to Kyoto: around 10,000 yen one way
- Osaka to Hiroshima: around 7,000 yen one way
This surprises many visitors because public transportation in Japan is famous for being efficient, but roads are not subsidized in the same way.
2. Toll Booth Hell – Without ETC, You Will Panic
Modern Japanese toll gates are designed for ETC users.
Without an ETC card, you may experience:
- Very few cash lanes
- No English guidance
- Angry drivers lining up behind you
Stopping at the wrong lane can literally freeze traffic.
3. What Is an ETC Card? (A Very Japanese System)
ETC is Japan’s electronic toll collection system.
It requires:
- An ETC device installed in the car
- A physical ETC card, usually issued by Japanese credit card companies
Even if you have a credit card, it will not work unless you also have the separate ETC card.
4. Renting a Car? You Must Reserve an ETC Card
Most foreigners fail here.
I mentioned how to rent a car in Japan here, but when booking a rental car, also make sure to check:
- ETC card rental option
- Highway pass options such as HEP or CEP (unlimited highway packages)
Without this, your road trip will become extremely stressful.
5. Real Price Example – Kyoto to Lake Biwa to Osaka
Section Toll Kyoto to Otsu 1,200 yen Otsu to Osaka 1,700 yen Total 2,900 yen
This is for less than 120 kilometers of driving.
6. Why Japanese People Still Use Highways
Despite the cost, highways are still heavily used because:
- Travel time is very reliable
- Mountain roads and urban congestion are avoided
- Service areas have clean toilets, good food, and family-friendly facilities
Japanese expressway service areas feel more like shopping malls than rest stops.
7. When You Should NOT Drive – Just Take the Shinkansen
For long-distance travel between major cities, driving is often not the best choice in Japan.
For example:
- Tokyo to Kyoto
- Osaka to Hiroshima
- Tokyo to Nagoya
In these cases, the Shinkansen is:
- Often cheaper than highway tolls + gas
- Much faster
- Stress-free
If your destination is close to a major station, the bullet train is usually the smarter option.
8. When Driving Actually Makes Sense
So when should you rent a car?
Driving in Japan is best when you are visiting:
- Rural areas
- Mountain regions
- Lakes, coastlines, or small towns
- Places with poor train access
Examples include:
- Lake Biwa countryside
- Shirakawa-go
- Small coastal towns in Wakayama or Shikoku
These places are beautiful, but frustrating or impossible to reach by train.
This is where renting a car in Japan truly shines.
9. My Honest Advice
- Use highways only for long-distance city transfers
- If your destination is near a Shinkansen station, skip the car and take the bullet train
- Use local roads inside tourist areas
- Treat the ETC card as your lifeline
In Japan, driving is not just transportation. It is a carefully planned operation.
If you understand the system, your road trip will be smooth.
If you do not, it will be expensive, confusing, and stressful.
Plan smart, and enjoy driving in Japan.